Motorcycle stalls when downshifting

Any pointers you can throw at me would be greatly helpful. Re: Dominar stalls when downshifting. When the side stand is engaged, the bike does not start, which is a safety feature.

I wonder if a side stand sensor fault could cause this issue? Originally Posted by sreeJiva. Originally Posted by SuhairZain. But I think that's unlikely given it happens only during downshifts. But still something worth keeping in mind. Last edited by a4anurag : 26th April at Not sure if it is the same root cause but some first gen Duke s had this exact issue. Randomly the bike would stall when downshifting. They never found out why it happens.

The only workaround is to give a slight blip to the throttle when downshifting. Last edited by timuseravan : 26th April at Originally Posted by a4anurag. How smooth is the gear shift action and how well do the gears slot? Could be a clutch free play issue. What is the idling RPM? ECU is up to date? Originally Posted by ashwinprakas. I will explain the basics, the rest is up to your level of understanding. Originally Posted by timuseravan. Last edited by BlackPearl : 27th April at Reason: Merged back to back posts.

Originally Posted by darkLightning. I would slow down the bike and move gears while going over the hole. Somehow this impact was messing up the mechanicals and fuel supply was getting cut. Does the issue pop up all the time? Or only on a cold engine? I've had this issue on my Mojo for some time now wherein the bike will shut off on downshiftimg for the first km of the ride.

Once the engine is hot enough, the issue doesn't show itself though. The SVC technician has diagnosed it to a faulty fuel pump. Same issue with my RR From the posts above, I assume whether this issue has something to do with higher capacity single cylinder engines.

Anyway, in my case other than stalling while downshifting, it sometimes also stalls while the clutch is disengaged the lever is pulled in. I do that while slowing down and when I'm about to downshift, so yeah.

This doesn't happen at higher speeds thankfully. As for the solution, TVS people told us that the issue has been traced to ECU and that they will update it soon, since they are thoroughly testing the update. I got to know this from our RR Facebook group. But immediately after that, the lockdown started. So we are yet to receive any updates or news regarding the same.

As for giving your bike to a stranger for 2 days or more, that's subjective. Personally, if it leads to diagnosing the issue and getting it corrected, I don't mind lending my bike to an authorized person.

If a bike just dies when you downshift for no apparent reason. The real problem ,as i am told, is due to the driving style. Some riders including me have the habit of disengaging the engine much before downshifting and letting the bike cruise on the clutch.

This would mean that the fuel intake becomes too rich for a reduced speed and bike would just cut off. This would ensure smoother and better AFR. When the bike jerks "stall" , it means that engine and rear wheel speed don't match and in that scenario, rev matching is the way to go.

Result is, you deny yourself engine response to change speed easily, and make more work, and trouble for yourself, making too many unnecessary up-shifts, that then beg too many unnecessary down-shifts, making your whole ride, harder, less 'smooth' and less finesses Your bike, has a rev range that extends from about 1,rpm tick-over, to about 11, rpm, just beyond the red-line.

Peak torque, the point n the rev range that the engine is working at it's most 'optimal' is probably about 9, rpm, with peak power, probably around 10,rpm BUT, it's a small, air-cooled single, in an 'unfaired' commuter style bike; so, there's water-jacket, or body-work to shield you from the noises it makes, and being a single, it only makes one bang' every other crank rev, it's not very 'smooth' so sounds more strained than it really is, and in consequence, and compared t car engines 'thrashed' if you use more than about half the rev's t has But, first gear, will take you from rest, to perhaps 30mph, 2nd.

What are my odds, f I bet a quid you are using 5th, quite a lot more often, and at speeds as low as 30? This would put you at least three gears higher than you need be, when you start slowing for junctions..

Apply the brakes, to try slowing down, with the engine driving the back wheel, clutch engaged, it WILL try and make the motor go lower than its 'stall-speed', wont it! Which is why you are haling in the clutch Don't shift up, you don't need to shift down!

Use the revs, you can slow down On the throttle, NOT the gears, and you can do it without risking the motor stalling, AND you can do it all 'under drive' rather than "coasting", where you DON'T have the same degree of control over the bike.. Try it - I'll lay the winnings of that quid I bet earlier, your 'tickover' problem goes away without a single screwdriver being twiddled"! Where Do U start? Reading what OP has actually written, I'd also check the clutch cable tension.

There should be just the merest sliver of slack at the lever before the tension comes on. Too tight and you'll be slipping the clutch inadvertently while riding. Too slack which is what I'd suspect and it might not be disengaging fully. Thanks for the replies guys; I've ridden it for another 2 weeks and during this time I've noticed that this only happens when the engine is cold, so after about 3 stop starts at lights it doesn't stall anymore.

Anyone know what this may be? Try raising it slightly see if it still cuts out. If you want to save the world, you have to push a few old ladies down the stairs. Skudd:- Perhaps she just thinks you are a window licker and is being nice just in case she becomes another Jill Dando. How many miles on the bike? From memory, CBFs from around that time had an issue with fuel pumps.

The best explanation that I heard was fuel dissolving some kind of protective coating on the inside of the tank or maybe just paint and fucking the pump.

A replacement pump fixed it - the stuff that killed the pump was long gone by the time the pump failed - but Honda never issued a recall. If your bike is low mileage, it is possible that the fuel pump is the original and knackered. It could also just be the way you're riding it. It's a , more revs, less mechanical sympathy. Robby wrote: How many miles on the bike? Do not fiddle with the mixture screw. It only affects running at tick over and your revs do not drop to tick over when down shifting.

Ariel Badger wrote: Do not fiddle with the mixture screw. Say you are coming to a stop, you shouldn't just hold the clutch in and go down all the gears in one go, firstly it's good practice to use engine breaking. Second it can stall the bike. If your rating is revoked you will lose karma Have you read the ratings guide? Read the Terms of Use!